tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post5941887434712872273..comments2023-11-24T03:34:39.766-07:00Comments on Building our Harbor Freight 10' x 12' Greenhouse: Part Two: The Foundationmudhousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797472938550347719noreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-76917294465254358942018-01-17T14:42:04.464-07:002018-01-17T14:42:04.464-07:00Hi Brian,
Unfortunately, Harbor Freight's lack...Hi Brian,<br />Unfortunately, Harbor Freight's lack of consistency between models makes this kind of answer almost impossible. There are currently two different versions of the 10x12 kit being sold. I think one is being phased out, but both still show up in stores. The two versions have different model numbers, and there are slight variations in parts between the two model numbers.<br /><br />There's a thread ongoing right now in the Greenhouse Forum of Houzz. Two folks are in the process of joining two 10x12 kits together, and they're doing a bang up job of discussing ways to do it, with photos. It would be a great place for you to read, and possibly join in. If you don't have a membership at Houzz, it's easy to register and no fee. You can read without joining; just need to join if you'd like to ask these folks for any questions.<br /><br />One of the people in this thread bought two HF 10x12 kits at a store, brought them home, and found out each one was a different model version. They've now purchased a third kit to try to solve the problem (bases are different.) <br /><br />This is a major problem right now, and one reason I wouldn't even try to give you dimensions to use to do a concrete base. I think the discussion in this thread might be very helpful to you:<br /><a href="https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/4753622/joining-2-10x12-hfghs?n=50" rel="nofollow">Joining Two 10x12 HFGHS?</a>mudhousehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14797472938550347719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-85962778669319538292018-01-17T14:24:12.962-07:002018-01-17T14:24:12.962-07:00Hello Im wanting to build one of there 10 X 12 gre...Hello Im wanting to build one of there 10 X 12 green houses too, I am wanting to make 4" <br />concrete runners for a sub-base. I have not purchased the kit yet. I was hoping you could help me with the base dimensions (out side to out side). I am thinking of setting 2 side by side (for a total of 20 X 12, could you give me the (out side) dimensions of the gutter. thanks BrianAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09698415093843049705noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-16391097231698525422017-06-11T16:02:49.261-06:002017-06-11T16:02:49.261-06:00Yes, there are now two versions of the Harbor Frei...Yes, there are now two versions of the Harbor Freight 10x12 greenhouse. They redesigned the kit at some point, with slight changes. For some time, both versions have been for sale through HF. There are slight differences between the older version I have (model 93358) and a newer version (model 69893) that you have.<br /><br />I have both manuals, and I believe you have model 69893, if your original panels are 2' by 6'. The other one, 93358, has roof panels that are 1'11" by 5'9". They've sent you the roof panels for the wrong model. If you still have your manual, it will say on the front which model you have.<br /><br />Unfortunately, when you order replacement parts, you have to be super careful to tell them <b>which model</b> of the 10x12 you have. Of course, an intelligent company would alert you to this potential problem, but apparently they don't. And to make it even worse, both versions use the same part number (Part 60) for the roof panel, even though it's two different sized panels, depending on which model you have! Madness.<br /><br />For a long time they had both manuals listed on their website, but now they only show the manual for model 93358 (no idea why.) If you need a manual for your greenhouse 69893, you can call HF and ask them to email you a PDF, I believe. If you did, the part list in that manual would show roof panels that are 2' by 6'.<br /><br />I'm afraid you'll have to call them and tell them you need roof panels for version 69893, not the roof panels for model 93358 that they shipped to you. I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I'm pretty sure that's what has happened here. Please let me know if I can answer any other questions.mudhousehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14797472938550347719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-58608400318921922602017-06-11T14:42:47.456-06:002017-06-11T14:42:47.456-06:00I bought replacement roof panels, part# 60, from H...I bought replacement roof panels, part# 60, from Harbor Freight for my 12x10 greenhouse but they don't fit... at first I thought they sent me roof panels for the smaller greenhouse but then I checked the online manual and the panel size is correct, 1’11”x 5’9". I measured my old roof panels and they are 2x6... Are there different versions of the 12x10 greenhouse? I'm not sure why they would make a change like that and offer spare parts...Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07031763679136704594noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-19803969777489165972017-03-08T23:33:07.733-07:002017-03-08T23:33:07.733-07:00Thanks Joe, glad you could find some help here. I ...Thanks Joe, glad you could find some help here. I know some parts of my blog are a bit outdated after all these years, but hopefully it can still be helpful. Feel free to post back if we can help.<br /><br />Your offer to enjoy the NC coast was tempting; Mr. Mudhouse and I discussed coming to help, but a quick look around here reminded us we'd better deal with our own list of long-overdue projects! <br /><br />I'm looking forward to freeing up my plants from the greenhouse pretty soon; they're ready to stop hiding from winter temps, and get back out on the patios. <br /><br />Good luck with your build, hope you have fun along the way.mudhousehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14797472938550347719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-71357794320474604212017-03-08T17:02:57.396-07:002017-03-08T17:02:57.396-07:00Mudhouse thank you for doing this. I am super impr...Mudhouse thank you for doing this. I am super impressed at the detail you have put into this blog. I was questioning buying one of these gh but after reading (and re-reading) this a few times my wife and I decided to buy one. I'm building the base this weekend and have a crew lined up for the following weekend to help "raise the barn". I have shared this blog with all of them so no one gets any bright ideas while we are building it. haha. Your instructions are way better than the ones in the box, thats for sure! <br />p.s. the weather is great this time of year on the NC coast if you and your husband want to come down and help with the build!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08889640515032269038noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-77444096308522431132016-05-04T17:50:26.517-06:002016-05-04T17:50:26.517-06:00Awesome blog! I just finished my foundation. Press...Awesome blog! I just finished my foundation. Pressure treated 4x6 on edge over solid block with gravel base. Thanks for all of your help!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08329156837584357750noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-76810078320997139722015-02-16T09:35:21.061-07:002015-02-16T09:35:21.061-07:00Back again Richie. My husband said I should add th...Back again Richie. My husband said I should add that the plumber's strapping we used is not really rated for being used underground; in a wet climate it might rust in a few years. We are in a hot dry climate so we can be less worried about such things.<br /><br />You could also use stainless wire secured to bolt heads in the wood; the folks at home depot might have other suggestions if you ask for a more weather resistant version of the plumber's strapping...if you live in a climate with more moisture.mudhousehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14797472938550347719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-54961419013936171892015-02-16T09:29:12.309-07:002015-02-16T09:29:12.309-07:00Hi Richie,
That is plumber's strapping, or pip...Hi Richie,<br />That is plumber's strapping, or pipe hanger strapping. It should be available in the plumbing section.<br /><br />Good luck with your build!mudhousehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14797472938550347719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-9092702438775267642015-02-16T04:52:50.900-07:002015-02-16T04:52:50.900-07:00Great article, helped we a lot. Question... what i...Great article, helped we a lot. Question... what is the rebar "strapping" you use to attach rebar to wood base? I looked all over Home Depot and could not find any. Is there a technical term?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09227313776655832723noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-51650369844504597482014-08-27T14:48:48.462-06:002014-08-27T14:48:48.462-06:00Model 93358 is the older version of the 10x12 kit ...Model 93358 is the older version of the 10x12 kit (like ours.) Model 69893 is the newer version of the 10x12 kit. There don't seem to be many differences between the two, but there are some redesigned parts. I can't think of any reason to value one over the other, functionally.<br /><br />That said, given the choice, I'd probably order the newer version, only because it seems more likely that Harbor Freight might discontinue some of the parts from the older kit first (if you ever need any replacement parts.) <br /><br />I've had a few folks email me with questions because they were using a manual that went with the other kit. Not sure if HF is shipping kits with the wrong manual; it's just something to be aware of, if it seems the parts in your kit don't quite match those shown in your manual. You can download both 10x12 manuals from the HF website, in any event.mudhousehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14797472938550347719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-13121419272939755672014-08-27T14:26:59.931-06:002014-08-27T14:26:59.931-06:00I'm going to order the GH by this weekend. Loo...I'm going to order the GH by this weekend. Looking at their website, I see 2 identical GHs, same specs, same price, just different item number. Do you have any idea if there's any difference between them? I've been calling HF, and there's always 10+ callers ahead of me, couldn't stay on the line that long. I might have to just flip a coin to decide between those 2. 8-))<br />Thanks!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01400288883932965435noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-27271969964726527972014-08-27T14:13:19.445-06:002014-08-27T14:13:19.445-06:00Personally we wouldn't go that route, ourselve...Personally we wouldn't go that route, ourselves.<br /><br />Our understanding is you'd need a minimum of 1 1/2" thickness for the new slab (or else I think you risk cracking and spalling.) According to the Quikcrete website calculator, you'd need about 45 60# bags for a 10x12 slab that was 2" thick. Setting aside the fact that we're not skilled concrete workers...it just makes us tired to even think about it. ;-)<br /><br />There might be some good concrete leveling products out there, but we're just not knowledgeable to be enough help on that point; I think most may be intended for indoor use...?mudhousehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14797472938550347719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-37206842312549643192014-08-27T13:56:34.115-06:002014-08-27T13:56:34.115-06:00Another idea that I just thought of is to make ano...Another idea that I just thought of is to make another slab to create a level base. I'd make a frame using 2" x 2" wood, forming a rectangle a little larger than 12' x 10'. Pour in a few bags of Quickcrete, then put the 6" x 6" foundation on top of this new & level slab. What do you guys think of this?<br />Thanks!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01400288883932965435noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-79836281792606117372014-08-27T13:32:16.091-06:002014-08-27T13:32:16.091-06:00Also, just as a reminder, we know you're aware...Also, just as a reminder, we know you're aware of how important it is to make sure the wooden foundation is level before erecting the frame. The frame itself is not rigid enough to be unaffected by a foundation that's out of level. <br /><br />If the foundation was not level, you'd be able to do the initial building just fine, but you'd run into problems later as you tried to add the angle braces and the poly panels themselves. Checking to make sure everything is plumb and square, as you go, is time well spent!mudhousehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14797472938550347719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-80621983388977427462014-08-27T13:26:05.312-06:002014-08-27T13:26:05.312-06:00Ok, brainstorming, we were trying to come up with ...Ok, brainstorming, we were trying to come up with a way for the 6x6 pieces to be in solid contact with the slab, at least at periodic intervals. On the side with the 1/2" gap, you could screw pairs of 3/8" lag bolts into the bottom of the 6x6", and adjust them to the correct height, so the wood was supported. <br /><br />The lag bolts just serve as adjustable spacers, or as very small "feet", in other words. The heads of the bolts would simply be sitting on the concrete slab. (As you said, you'd still be firmly securing the wood to the slab by using the rebar, driven into the ground.)<br /><br />On the two adjacent sides, which will have a gap that varies in size, you could also use a few lag bolts at intervals, and screw them in at different heights to accomodate the changing gap size.<br /><br />Then gravel could still be used under the wooden beams, as it would flow around the lag bolts. <br /><br />And/or, we'd probably also brainstorm a bit about some kind of insulating material to stuff under that gap, maybe before packing in any gravel, just because we tried to avoid easy air infiltration (we heat during the winter.) It would need to be something resistant to moisture.<br /><br />Maybe this will give you more ideas; we often find that inspiration strikes with even better solutions, once we're in the process!mudhousehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14797472938550347719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-48503949137030844792014-08-27T12:27:23.231-06:002014-08-27T12:27:23.231-06:00Hi mudhouse,
The largest gap is no more than 1/2&q...Hi mudhouse,<br />The largest gap is no more than 1/2".<br />Thank you!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01400288883932965435noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-45779256091386260892014-08-27T12:19:33.150-06:002014-08-27T12:19:33.150-06:00Woops, sorry for misspelling your name, Darren!Woops, sorry for misspelling your name, Darren!mudhousehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14797472938550347719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-59805262045031344652014-08-27T12:09:21.630-06:002014-08-27T12:09:21.630-06:00Hello Darron, it would be helpful if we had an ide...Hello Darron, it would be helpful if we had an idea of how much slope you're dealing with. On the side farthest from the house, what size gap will you have, between the bottom of your wooden foundation, and the concrete slab? (1/2 inch? Two inches?)mudhousehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14797472938550347719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-35872895542418953062014-08-27T11:33:51.455-06:002014-08-27T11:33:51.455-06:00mudhouse,
I think I'm going to make a foundat...mudhouse,<br /><br />I think I'm going to make a foundation out of 6" x 6" pressure treated redwood. This way the GH will be higher off the ground, and I'll gain a little more height for my taller trees. One problem I'm having is that the concrete surface at my house is not flat. It's sloped away from the house for drainage of rain water. Do you, or your husband, have any idea on how to have the wood foundation level? A novice idea of mine is to shove in some pea gravel under the wood to help level it. Once I fastened the wood foundation to the ground with rebar, the gravel is not going anywhere. <br />Thanks!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01400288883932965435noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-56281119158436839582014-08-25T16:58:31.616-06:002014-08-25T16:58:31.616-06:00mudhouse,
What a great idea! Why didn't think...mudhouse,<br /><br />What a great idea! Why didn't think of that? Guess that's why I'm a newbie. The concrete was poured about 6 years ago at the side of my house, just to have a clean surface, rather than dirt. I have no idea how thick it is. I'll try the rebar method. <br />Thank you!!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01400288883932965435noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-20164269790051205792014-08-25T16:26:54.405-06:002014-08-25T16:26:54.405-06:00Hello Darren,
My husband's thoughts are that 2...Hello Darren,<br />My husband's thoughts are that 2" thick concrete might not have have the steel reinforcement common to a thicker slab. A lot depends on the integrity of the concrete (condition, age) but it might not be as strong as you'd guess; it's hard to know without seeing it.<br /><br />One idea is to drill holes through the 2" of concrete, and use those holes for heavy pieces of rebar (as we used, in the photos above.) The rebar stakes could be driven through the holes in the concrete, and deeply into the ground below. These stakes could then be anchored to the sides of your wooden foundation, as we did above.<br /><br />This is just one idea; maybe others will post here with more suggestions.mudhousehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14797472938550347719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-61185055131816316292014-08-25T14:19:46.482-06:002014-08-25T14:19:46.482-06:00Hi,
Thank you so much for having this blog. This w...Hi,<br />Thank you so much for having this blog. This will help me a ton! I'm planning on constructing a frame like yours for the foundation. However, my frame will be sitting on concrete, not dirt like yours. Can you recommend a way to secure the wooden frame to the concrete? The concrete is about 2" thick, I believe. I can drill holes in stabilize/fasten the wooden frame through the holes. What kind of stake and/or fasteners are good to use in this situation?<br />Thanks!!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01400288883932965435noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-16123353650324429562014-06-04T16:42:26.925-06:002014-06-04T16:42:26.925-06:00....disregard my last question, I see the solution.......disregard my last question, I see the solution in part 3. Thanks again.The Nörsk-in-lawhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17446268627916672967noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4563487586017212080.post-20944810849021037342014-06-04T16:35:50.595-06:002014-06-04T16:35:50.595-06:00Thanks for documenting your build. I am having an ...Thanks for documenting your build. I am having an issue I can't find answer for and I'm hoping you can provide insight. The instructions say to attach the floor plates to the base plates using the clips that go under the lip of the base. The illustrations show the floor plates being fastened to one another with the nut end of the bolts down. There are no holes in the base plate so the net result is a crown to the floor plate. Should there be holes in the bases plate for the bolts to go through or is the crown a necessary part of the construction? I am baffled.The Nörsk-in-lawhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17446268627916672967noreply@blogger.com